China for 22 Hours (That Story I Tell My Kids One Day #2)

If you ever need to check that your body is producing adrenaline, just travel through China. My flight to Nepal featured a 22 1/2 hour layover which gave me many opportunities to do something stupid. I was successful.
I was heading to Nepal because I had to apply for my indian visa from my country of residence. I couldn't apply before I left because their visa validity starts from date of issue. Yet I needed the visa before booking my flight and I needed a flight out of Taiwan when I entered. (I feel like I'll be able to be a travel agent by the end of this.) So the cheapest way was to fly to Nepal for two weeks during which I'd apply to graduate schools.

After booking I found I was allowed to leave the airport on a visa free 24 hr transit, so I booked a hotel with a free airport shuttle. I called to confirm my shuttle and hoped I was all set.

The flight was uneventful. I just thought it was a bit funny that my window seat in row 37 was actually a wall seat in row 9. But my flight was uneventful.

Row 37: I'm guessing this is to make the plane seem bigger

T Minus 22 Hours
I'll spare you the details but basically upon landing I was passed around to a series of officials before finally being given to a man who stood up on his little platform looking both menacing and annoyed as he handed me my passport and said, "You have 24 hours in China. No more."
Point taken sir.
T Minus 21 Hours
Luckily for me I had an iPad and Skype so theoretically (or so I thought) I would be able to connect to the Internet and call for my shuttle. Unfortunately for me, not being Chinese I'm not allowed to access the free wifi at the airport. I called via a payphone (yeah, those exist in China) and settled in to wait for the shuttle that never did show up. (In all fairness they did send me an email that they were waiting at domestic departures, but without internet I was still at international arrivals.)
T Minus 19 Hours
About two hours later I gave up and decided to try my luck with a taxi. Little did I know my hotel was in some bizarre location that no gps could find. So, I was refused.
"No problem" I thought "sure it's not ideal, but there's an entire floor of this brand new airport devoted as a traveler's rest area." Oh my optimism. The traveler's rest area turned out to be a dimly lit large room 3 floors underground with hundreds of single plastic chairs. I only wish I had taken a picture. It also seemed to double as the Chinese military's break room. I lasted about 45 minutes.
T Minus 18 Hours
There was only one more option I hadn't tried-- the local taxis, that group of people that ask you if you need a taxi when you leave the terminal. I walked out and was immediately swarmed. I tried being smart about it going with the one woman who offered, though her price was higher. She took my bag and lead me to the parking garage. After she put my suitcase in the trunk and I opened the back door of the car to find that it was already full of people. Panic.
I tried to get my case back, and was unsuccessful so I wrote the license plate number on my arm and we were off. The man driving immediately started screaming angrily (or at least it sounded angrily) into his phone. I frantically tried to think of a good excuse for why I had done something so stupid as we went to the outer skirts of the city on a dirt road where we pulled over, much to the anger of the other people on the road. A van pulled over in front of us and the people in the back of our car got out and took my bag putting it in the van. The driver looked at me and started screaming "money, money!" Horns were honking, my bag was in a different car, and I was worried I was being robbed or kidnapped without knowing it. Not ideal.
T Minus 17.5 Hours
I paid him, and petrified got out as they sped away. I got into the other car and after about 10 agonizing minutes I thankfully realized it was the long awaited shuttle from my hotel. The shuttle driver probably wondered why I went from being so scared to looking so happy. The hotel owners apologized and took money off my bill. I took a quick shower, and fell asleep to the low murmur of English CCTV and my neighbors who sounded like they were dying by slowing coughing up their lungs.
T Minus 6 Hours
In the morning, I hiked over a small mountain of bricks and plastic to get to the shuttle. We picked up two men, one of whom tried unsuccessfully to make conversation in Chinese with me. Once I got to the airport I sat down and was swarmed. I had about 5 elderly Chinese men on my left and about the same number of young Chinese men on my right all trying to make conversation via elaborate hand signs. I got "your smile *thumbs up*" but it wasn't working too well until iPhones were pulled out and translation apps were used. While they tried to convince me to come to Bangkok with them and ask me what I did for a living, I tried to explain my fellowship to them. It didn't translate very well. I ended up leaving them thinking I worked for the U.S. government and they no longer wanted me to come to Bangkok. Close enough.

Out of the Mouth of Teens

As you might remember (though you probably can't tell by reading this blog) I'm doing a research project on arts education.
After talking to numerous students in both Australia and Taiwan, and reading many papers, my findings as to how students in these two countries seem to perceive the arts can be basically summed up by the difference between these two answers. After confirming their interest in art I asked both why.

"I love art because it gives me a chance to express myself. I learn so much from it, and it makes me feel so happy and alive."
"A" 15 years old, Melbourne, Australia

"At school (on Saturdays only) we have to choose between sports and art. I hate sports and in art I don't have to think. I just get to not use my brain."
"S" 16 years old, Chiayi, Taiwan

Project = Done

Just kidding.

Despite how important the arts seem to be culturally, in Taiwan I found little regard for them in schools. The difficulty in explaining to people that I have a bachelor's in art was just one of the many "cultural differences" I faced.
The approach to education was different in general. Students face incredible amount of pressure at home. One student I talked to told me about a time that they brought home a B+ and had to stand outside the door the whole night... they were 10. Students at Concordia School, where I got to attend classes, arrived at school at 7 am and went to school until 5 pm. Then most went off to cram school.

When I started teaching a class at a local university in Taipei (because that happened...) I planned what ended up being "a very American" class. I planned games, and asked questions to the class as a whole. I got silence, and a lot of wide eyed expressions. I responded by making them learn a dance. Whereas we place more value on independent thinking, and participation, speaking out in front of the class is seen as boastful.

But my goodness the students were cute!
Here's a few of them at Concordia... as you can tell they were just a little welcoming.

Taiwanese Bowling

Written earlier:
Tonight I did what I have to describe as "Taiwanese Bowling." The bowling is in atmosphere only. To play this, you enter a large arena and are given a razor blade, a raw chicken liver and a long piece of bamboo. Oh yes, indoor shrimp fishing, with a bowling atmosphere.

I'll admit, when I was asked if I wanted to go fishing I first thought of a river, when they said it was indoors I envisioned a few probably older men around a small kiddie pool. No, this was serious. There were three ponds, and probably about 50 people, a majority of them around my age. My favorites brought their own poles and bait (and were much more successful.)

Now,  I've never been fishing, though I was once taught the basics of fly fishing on a rugby field (thanks Colyer.) If I'm bad at this, where they literally dump gigantic amounts of shrimp the the pool as you sit there, I feel like fishing might not be my thing. But hey, it was fun.

Taiwan Catch-up

Normally I'm good about not procrastinating... But we all have our moments. About 5 weeks ago I arrived in Taiwan, it seems so much longer, and yet it flew by. It's now time to catch up.

1. "Detention"

I spent my last night in Malaysia sleeping in a renovated shipping container. I can add that to my list of interesting sleeping arrangements. It was quite tight, but it was decent as a hostel and I had a good few hours before hopping on board my flight. Though uneventful, the real fun began once I got off the plane. This entire trip I've been dreading the possibility of being detained... not that I have reason to be detained, except when I'm stupidly honest. Upon arrival I made two mistakes-- 1. not knowing my address in Taiwan and 2. Telling the truth that I didn't know my address in Taiwan. The woman next to me offered to have me write down her address, but she only knew it in Chinese and thought that might be suspicious.

I was detained. It was the third time in my life in detention. My first detention was due to wearing long earrings in 8th grade and my second was in high school because I parked in the teacher's lot. I spent my third with a Taiwanese customs official. Much to my surprise he spent it quizzing me on current events. I was doing well in this strange version of jeopardy until he asked me the result of the Scottish independence (it had been decided midflight.) He went to get his cell phone to look up the result. He asked quite a few questions about details surrounding the vote and once we discussed it a bit more he stamped my passport.

Credit: Zark An

2. "Angie"

It was soon after I met Angie who would spend countless hours showing me around. Not only that, but she is also one of the most lovely people I have ever met. When people ask me my favorite thing about Taiwan I have to give the cliche response, "the people." I met so many outstanding people who were so welcoming and generous. The Chen family, who I stayed with during my time in Taiwan, were perfect examples of this.

3. "珍珠奶茶"

Not only is it one of the only things I can say in Chinese, but bubble tea it is also amazing. I had quite a bit of it. I also seem to have an alarming number of pictures of Angie, myself, and bubble tea.

Some examples:







4. "The Subway"

An honorable mention needs to go to the subway. Imagine an incredibly clean, efficient metro system. All the people stand on the right and walk on the left on the escalators, and wait in the "waiting lines" for the train. Overhead play little love stories of people falling in love due to the "kindness she demonstrated while being a good citizen on the Taipei Metro."

Source: blog.myfatpocket.com

5. "My Weekends"

Having just been to New Zealand I thought few places could rival it in beauty. The east coast of Taiwan does. I went there during one of my weekends that I joined a group, VOIS for trips around Taiwan. My trips need an entire post for themselves!

Food Critic Edition

After an unfortunate ipad crash I lost a blog or two, but I'm back and will try to make up for lost time! I have been so busy-- which means there is much to tell, but little time in which to tell it. Therefore I'll devote this post to the most important subject in my life-- food. (I mean second, after my proposal, of course.)

Before I left I wrote a list of promises to myself. One was to eat anything traditional that was offered to me (as long as it was okay for me to eat and I had never had it.) Being incredibly worried about offending your hosts makes it easier to eat what's put in front of you. Here's my list (so far) of new food from best to worst.

Hot pot- It's like a game of chance, a cooking lesson and a challenge all wrapped in one. Hot pots are exactly what you're probably thinking they are-- bowls of hot soup on your table in which you cook different vegetables and meats. The game of chance comes into play because you never really know what you're adding. The cooking lesson happens when you have to remember what has been cooking for how long and guess how long everything should cook. The challenge all comes down to the chopsticks. I think I could become good at probably anything if the alternative made me impolite, embarrassed and hungry. Manners are a powerful motivator for me, food even more so. Having only used chopsticks for a few weeks I'm becoming so much better. Still, when the hot pot contains small, round and slimy things, I struggle.

(As soon as I get hot pot pictures from my friends I'll post them. Get ready to be hungry.)

Passionfruit- It is a crime we don't import passionfruit. Having become addicted to these in Australia I was thrilled to find they're twice the size here. K, you would love them. They taste like a pulpy, slighty fruity, lemon.

Rambutan- I think this fruit was a result of Mother Nature becoming bored. Besides looking awesome, and having an awesome name they also taste awesome. They're sweet, firm and delicious.

Dragon fruit- Dragon fruit looks like it was co-designed by a toddler and an abstract painter. Bright red and green on the outside with a bright purple center, they are a joy and a mess to eat. Slightly sweet with a refreshing after taste, they are wonderful to eat in the hot weather.

Section fruit- I have no clue what these are called. They look like dragon eggs-- or what I think dragon eggs would look like. Bright green, they are super sweet but have a pit in each section, so take a while to eat.

Duck- I have no clue why I've never had duck, but it will not be the last time.

Star fruit- You're probably noticing a trend in the fruit.

Oysters- I've had one oyster in my life, so it's not technically my first time eating one. However I ate one (or four) since they were freshly caught and grilled. Texturally not super appealing, but the taste makes up for it. Eating them hot really improves the whole texture problem.

Duck Blood- The true Cinderella story of this edition. Despite looking and texturally being like purple tofu it tastes like meat. I would eat it again.

Fish Cheek- Supposily the best part of the fish. I was flattered to be served them. They were pretty good, but I still like the filet better.

Century Egg- Black, gelatinous, months old eggs that smell and taste sulfuric. They're super popular here.

Frog- Slimy with a slightly chickeny taste. The green skin throws me off and the meat to bone ratio makes it a lot of work.

Squid- Street stalls frequently sell squid on a stick. Now that I've had it once, I think I'm good. It's like eating slightly pleasant tasting rubber. Totally okay, but not my first choice.

Chicken Feet- There's no denying what these are. It's even harder to chew than the squid. Boneless they're much better, but I ended up having to swallow them whole... I think I'll pass next time as death by choking on a chicken foot in taiwan wouldn't be the best way to end my fellowship.

Durian- Durians are illegal on the subway in Singapore because they smell so terribly and strongly. They taste better than they smell, but only just.

Rice sausage- I'm still not quite sure what was in it. The rice is sticky, with an almost bitter taste.

Cow Stomach & Intestine- Bleh. The small cilia make chewing unpleasant. The black color threw me off as well.

Snails- I thought they'd be better than I expected, I was wrong.

Fish Eye- Mushy with a hard center, I think once is enough. Despite tasting better than I expected, the eating of eyes just becomes too mental for me.

During the meal where I ate a fish eye I had two (post-mortem) chickens staring at me. I'm told you can hit the top and eat out of it, luckily no one served me one.

& to all Watson Candidates- good luck! If you have any questions or just need some sympathy for how stressful applying can be, feel free to Facebook me this week. I will have Internet!

 

Lost In Translation #1

I have had the joy of meeting many english speakers in Taiwan. Overall their English is generally excellent, but some things get a bit lost in translation. The results are generally adorable. Here are a few I remember.

"We'll go up the tower when the sun falls down and goes to sleep." = We'll go up the tower at sunset.

"Watch Out Your Head" = watch your head (a sign)

"She was a cucabine." = concubine

"I've been sitting, I need to have some moves." = I need some exercise

"No admission on the raining day."

"I live by the river so I have knowledge of all the fish, but when we go to ocean I loose my power, goes poof." = she doesn't recognize ocean fish

Snapshots

I get what I call sympathetic awkwardness. I can't watch someone in a situation I would find awkward without feeling as if I was them. (I had to leave the theater while watching the movie Bridesmaids.) I have no clue why a story from NPR still haunts me, but it does. The story was about the reporter's most embarrassing moment. He had just had his 5 minutes of fame when a woman came up and asked to take a picture with him. He was thrilled he had been recognized, posed for the picture with her only to have her sheepishly then ask for him to take a picture of her and her husband. To me this sounds horrible and yet I keep having the opposite happen. I've taken a lot of pictures of other people for them, but, I've taken even more with random strangers. It started at Batu Caves, we kept getting people stopping us to take photos, normally of their loved ones and us-- people with whom they didn't even have a conversation. If someone could could explain why this keeps happening I'd love to know.

This is a new one.

The iconic towers of KL.

I've now been in Taiwan a week and have gotten a bit behind in blogging. I'll catch up soon I promise!

Hope you are all well!